One of the things that my friends and I miserably failed to do during their visit here was go on a day trip to Belgium, which is only three hours from Amsterdam by train. Instead, "Belgium" became our new code word for snoozing/puttering/lolling around lazily at home, e.g. "Nag-breakfast na ba sina Pia? Mukhang hindi pa, nasa Belgium pa sila." LOL!
I didn't know about Maastricht when they were here, or else I would have suggested a day trip there instead. One of the oldest towns in the Netherlands, Maastricht is in the southernmost province called Limburg, and is within walking distance of Belgium and cycling distance of Germany. I first heard about it from my friend Leigh, who was positively rapturous about how pretty it was with its Belgian/French landscape and feel, as compared to your typical Dutch old town. "Maastricht has hills. Hills!" she raved. Yes, hills are worth raves in this flat-as-a-pannekoek country—and certainly pointed to a town worth visiting.
Then I found out about
Preuvenemint, an open-air food festival held in Maastricht during the last weekend of August. The promise of good food is one of the things that will get Marlon and myself to hop on a train and travel for two and a half hours, so we thought it was the perfect time to finally check out Maastricht for ourselves.
Preuvenemint was held in the Vrijthof, Maastricht's biggest and best-known square lined by old buildings, churches and cafes. Looming over the Vrijthof (aside from the ominous-looking storm clouds) are two huge churches: the Sint Janskerk with its distinctive red tower, and the Basiliek Sint Servaas.
The food festival has its own currency called lappen. (O kung tawagin sa atin ay chits. Very high school fair!) One lappen is equivalent to 2 Euro.
After a couple of rounds of the festival grounds, we came to the conclusion that Preuvenemint caters to a very well-heeled and mostly old crowd. The restaurant pavilions were filled with groups of very blond, very distinguished-looking Dutch who looked right out of casting for a Ralph Lauren ad campaign, swilling champagne and picking at tiny tasting portions of very elaborate dishes.
Here, the lappen function as a very clever way of making you forget that you're paying twice as much for what is essentially a tiny portion. Most dishes were from 4-5 lappen (€8-10) each! Yes, I know what tasting portions are, but this wasn't what I was expecting in a food festival. There was definitely something lost in translation for me here. Maybe I was expecting something a little more... down-to-earth? Hearty? Festive? I guess you could say I was disappointed.
However, the trip wasn't a total loss. I managed to finally fulfill my craving for a crepe (not a Dutch pancake, a proper French crepe!), something I didn't have the time to do on my last visit to France. And for 2 lappen (€4), I had a hot, satisfying snack in the form of
tuutsje, a cone of fried smelt fish with
ravigote sauce and lemon.
This twist on Vlaamse frites, or Flemish fries (guess they're too proud to call them French fries around here!) harks back to the origin of French fries, or at least the origin story that's generally accepted in these parts. What we know today as French fries began as small fish, such as smelt, fried up by Belgian peasants. When fish proved hard to catch, strips of potatoes took their place... and thus Vlaamse frites were born.
Disappointment with the food festival aside, we were both just happy to be in this beautiful town. It really reminded me of Belgium. We decided to walk around the historic center a bit, but eventually hunger got the best of us and we sat down for a full meal in a small square beside Onze Lieve Vrouwen Basiliek, or the Basilica of Our Lady.
A horse-drawn buggy is parked outside the basilica. This is for the hourly city tours of Maastricht that cost €10. Maybe we'll do that next time. I know we'll definitely be back.
To go with the day's Belgian theme, I ordered a hot, steaming helping of
moules frites. With a big swig of Affligem Blond, it sure hit the spot!
We'd both been obsessing about rabbit after Masterchef Australia used it in a couple of episodes. So Marlon opted for rabbit stewed Maastricht-style.
Maastricht is definitely on the pricier side, but the food was better than what we'd normally have in a Dutch cafe. (Or were we just hungry?) Whatever the case, we agreed that the day trip was a good idea and we were happy with the chance to explore a new place. Soon it was time to head back to Amsterdam.
This was the weather we had pretty much all day. I really have to accept that summer is over!
Belgium may have its own culture, (better) food and different architecture, a little of which we glimpsed without having to hop over the border that day in Maastricht. But they ain't escapin' this weather!
