Paradise at a steal

Approximately three hours from crowded, sweltering Manila is an island getaway where the seafood is fresh, the sand is dazzling white, the water is a beautiful clear turquoise, and good vibes abound. It is a getaway for adventurers of the 'strike anywhere' variety, who think nothing of hopping on a bus on a whim, armed with nothing but a swimsuit and a pair of flip-flops. It is a refuge for the low-key urbanite escaping the frenzied crowd at Manila's latest 'in' spots (the same crowd that currently overpopulates Boracay). It is my paradise on the cheap—Puerto Galera, Oriental Mindoro.

Centuries ago, during Spain's colonization of the Philippines, Puerto Galera was a historic port of call for Spanish galleons plying trade between Mexico and Manila. Today, it is a popular summer haunt for young, middle-class Manilans. The opening of an affordable ferry route to Boracay via Mindoro has also made Puerto Galera a pit stop of choice for those proceeding to the upscale island getaway.

Life in Puerto Galera revolves around White Beach, where a significant number of affordable, frills-free cottages are available for rent. I'm often asked how to book reservations in Galera. The answer is, you don't. (This answer often leaves born planners in a cold sweat.) Upon stepping off the ferry, visitors are besieged by a number of resort owners calling out rooms and rates-the Galera equivalent of Manila's street hawker. For those who absolutely must have their fluffy bathrobes and room service, upscale private villas are located on the other beaches of Galera, such as Coco Beach, Big La Laguna and La Laguna.

The denizens of White Beach, however, are happy where they are. The white-sand beach has remained amazingly clean despite the tourism boom. Outrigger boats are moored close to shore, giving swimmers welcome refuge from the sun. These boats can be rented for jaunts to nearby reefs, where the snorkeling and diving are excellent. An ice-cold dip in a nearby waterfall, Tamaraw Falls, is only a tricycle ride away. After a typically spectacular sunset, beachside bars open for business, allowing you to swig an ice-cold San Miguel or shot of Mindoro Sling right down at the shoreline, beneath the stars.

Rewarding patrons
For the past five years, I've been a regular visitor to Puerto Galera, mostly during the off-peak months of October to February. People remember you, and reward you in the most unlikely ways for your continued patronage. While I was haggling with a henna tattoo artist, a wizened local masseur sitting nearby cut in. "Hindi mo na maloloko 'yan (Don't think you can cheat her)," she warned the tattoo artist. "Madalas 'yan dito (She comes here often)." Or, you just might get a special invitation to Lasagna Night at Italian Corner Pizzeria, a literal hole-in-the-wall eatery off White Beach. Home of fresh-baked Italian bread and crispy, thin-crust pizza, this bamboo shack is manned by an Italian adventurer and his friendly barkeep Josie, who speaks fluent English with a quirky Italian-Batangueño accent.

Aside from the peace and quiet, the prices are simply the best thing about off-season. Cottages are available for P400 (about $7) per night, four to five times less than what they would cost in summer. A full meal of grilled tanigue, rice and ice-cold Coke can be had for about P40 (about 70 cents). For the same price, a tall, frosty ripe mango shake is an inexpensive indulgence, especially when the sun gets fierce. Boatmen will fall all over themselves to sell you an eight-hour snorkeling jaunt for P750 (about $13), boat and gear included. A five-day stay for two off-season will barely reach P5,000 (about $89), which is what you would spend on airfare alone for Boracay. No wonder the place is a favorite of twentysomethings and backpackers.

However, while I am a fan of the quiet off-season months, White Beach simply explodes into life during the peak months of March to June. Makeshift stalls selling colorful cotton sarongs, pearl jewelry and beachwear abound. Henna tattoo artists ply their trade alongside local masseurs who proffer hour-long, full-body massages on the sand with fragrant coconut oil. Colorful friendship bracelets are thrust at you every now and then by the local children, who sell these to augment the family income. Somewhere along the shore, browned yuppies are setting up a beach volleyball game. And something about the summer sunshine just turns the water into an insanely bright, sparkling shade of aqua.

While prices may change peak or off-peak, the natural beauty of Puerto Galera never does. Neither does its appeal to those looking for a patch of sunshine and an easy getaway. Puerto Galera's turquoise waters, white sand and poignant sunsets are pockets of paradise that are accessible to all. Indeed, the best things in life are free.

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this came out in yesterday's issue of company's weekly email bulletin, which is manned by j. got a lot of good feedback on it, which made me quite happy. i haven't written an article for fun in a while. and the demands of this particular job tend to bury one's own writing style.

funny: j wanted to replace the original title "paradise on the cheap", which makes the place sound, well, cheap. at the end of a long day, these were the only suggestions i could muster up:

• paradise at a discount
• paradise on a shoestring budget (which makes me sound so poor)
• paradise at a steal
• puerto galera: paradise gets marked down (or with a markdown)
• puerto galera: the only paradise lowly copy editors can afford

sensibly, j decided to go with "paradise at a steal" before my suggestions got more ludicrous. thanks for printing this j. i owe you one, literally -- my article on bintan next monday!

as for the pics, you've seen those before, but i wanted to mockup the published layout as closely as i could.